Florence, Italy
Florence (Firenze
in Italian) is the capital of the region of Tuscany, on Italy's
northwest coast. Florence is a small city, located in the Arno
River valley, and surrounded by olive-planted hills on the north
and south. It extends west and slightly east along the Arno
valley with suburbs and light industry. The centro storico
(historic center), where visitors spend most of their time, is a
tight tangle of medieval streets and piazze (squares). Most of
Florence, and the majority of the tourist sites, lie north of
the river, within a vintage artisan's working-class neighborhood
wedged between the Arno and the hills on the south side.
The center is
encircled by a traffic ring of wide boulevards, known as the
Viali, that were created in the late 1800s by tearing down the
city's medieval walls. Since the 14th century the cultural heart
of the city has been the Piazza della Signoria with the Palazzo
Vecchio (Town Hall), the Uffizi Gallery and a large number of
publicly displayed world famous sculptures.
In the Renaissance
period, Florence was one of the most powerful and influential of
the city states. The wealthy and powerful de' Medici family
ruled the city almost continuously from 1434 to 1743 and had a
great influence on the architecture and arts. They built many
palaces and commissioned such artists as Michelangelo to design
and decorate them.
In fact, Florence
is called the capital of the arts. From the 13th to the 16th
century it was a seemingly endless source of creative
masterpieces and Italian genius. Both Dante and Michelangelo
were born there. Boccaccio wrote his 'Decameron' in Florence.
The Italian Renaissance (Europe's richest cultural period )
began in
Florence when the artist Brunelleschi finished the
Duomo, the cathedral, with the huge dome.
Florence is also a
city of incomparable indoor pleasures. Its chapels, galleries
and museums are an inexhaustible treasure, capturing the
complex, often elusive spirit of the Renaissance more fully than
any other place in the country.
Florence is a
walking city. Visitors can take a leisurely stroll between the
two most often visited sights, the Duomo and the Uffizi, in less
than five minutes. The walk from the most northerly point, San
Marco with its Fra' Angelico frescoes and the Accademia with
Michelangelo's David, to the most southerly, the Pitti Palace
across the Arno, should take no more than 30 minutes. From Santa
Maria Novella rail station across town to Santa Croce is an easy
20 to 30 minute walk.
Most of the streets
were designed to handle the moderate pedestrian traffic and
occasional horse-drawn cart of a medieval city. Sidewalks, where
they exist, are narrow; often less than two feet wide. Though
much of the centro storico is supposedly closed to traffic,
taxis, residents with parking permits, people without permits
who drive there anyway, and the endless stream of noisy motorini
(mopeds) still enter, drive and park.
Planning is
extremely important when visiting Florence. Most visitors come
to the city with a common purpose: to spend hours viewing and
absorbing the beauty and wonder of Florentine works of art and
architecture. However, trying to pack too much into a single,
brief visit can result in cultural overload. Florence is not the
choice of those seeking a seaside resort or a holiday with small
children. Older children, well disciplined, and well prepared,
can benefit from accompanying their parents on a tour of the
museums, palaces, and churches, but interest for most youngsters
will rapidly wane in the crush of crowds and intense heat of the
small city. Adult tempers will fray as well. Boboli Gardens can
provide a respite from the heat and activity, but the landscaped
grounds of the Pitti Palace are designed to rest the eyes and
delight the imagination. It is not primarily a playground.
Festivals,
shopping, feasts for the senses along every street, in every
square, and in every museum: these are the gifts Florence offers
to the visitor.
Tuscany is known
for its fine culinary traditions - in particular, its olive oil,
meat dishes and classic Chianti. Restaurants of every type,
offering bills of fare ranging from fast food to world-class
cuisine abound, and there are clusters of little caf¨¦s in every
neighborhood. Tuscan food is simple and excellent with a variety
of bean dishes, soups, pork dishes, grilled meats and
vegetables. Fine Tuscan wines accompany the meal.
The Tuscan economy
is rooted in craft traditions. The top designers of Milan use
the textile factories of Florence for the execution of their
designs. Gold working has been perfected over the centuries in
workshops near the Ponte Vecchio, where jewelry is produced that
is sold throughout Europe. Visitors will find a beautiful
assortment of leather goods, including shoes, as well. Marbled
paper, handmade perfumes and toiletries, decorative ceramic
pieces, and sculpture are also locally produced.
When planning a
visit to Tuscany, put its small geographical size and its many
opportunities for exploration in perspective, and allow time to
savor its infinite possibilities.
Population:
Approximately 380,000. Visitors: over 3 million annually.
Time Zone:
Greenwich Mean Time plus one hour: (plus two hours in summer)
Time in Florence is 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in
New York.7 hours ahead of central time in Chicago, etc.
Newspapers &
Magazines:
International Herald Tribune and USA Today can be purchased from
almost any newsstand . The Wall Street Journal Europe and the
London Times, along with Time and Newsweek magazines are
available at most larger kiosks. There's a 24-hour newsstand in
the train station.
Passports &
Visas:
All U.S., British, and Canadian citizens, even infants, need
only a valid passport to enter
Italy for stays of up to 90 days.
A Visa is not required.
Telephones:
The country code for Italy is 39. The area code for Florence is
055. When calling from abroad, the 0 should be left out.
Example: a call from New York City to Florence would be dialed
as follows: 011 + 39 + 55 + phone number.
Long Distance:
Hotels tend to charge very high rates for long-distance and
international calls. It is best to make such calls from Telefoni
offices, where operators will assign you a booth, help you place
your call, and collect payment when you have finished, at no
extra charge. Telefoni offices are designated "Telecom." You can
make collect calls from any phone by dialing 172-1011, which
connects to an English-speaking operator. Rates to the United
States are lowest round the clock on Sunday and 11 PM-8 AM,
Italian time, on weekdays. When calling from pay telephones,
insert a 200-lire coin (which will be returned upon completion
of your call).
Operators &
Information:
For general information in English, dial 176. To place calls
from one European country to another via operator-assisted
service, dial 15. To place intercontinental telephone calls via
operator-assisted service (or for intercontinental information),
dial 170 or long-distance access numbers. When calling from the
United States, dial the international access code, 011, then the
country code, the "city code," and the rest of the number.
Telephone
Country & City Codes: The country code for Italy is 39. What
used to be Florence's city code of 055- is now an integral part
of every phone number. You must always dial it--including the
initial zero--even when calling to another number from within
Florence itself. Additional numbers are expected to be issued in
Florence that start with numerals other than 055-.
Currency:
Currency is the Euro (EUR). The notes are in denominations of
500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5 euro. The denominations of
coins are 2 euro, 1 euro, 50 euro cent, 20 euro cent, 10 euro
cent, 5 euro cent, 2 euro cent, and 1 euro cent. The easiest
method of securing cash at the best exchange rate is to make
withdrawals using a US credit card from the ATM machines found
at the major banks and stores.
Customs
Regulations:
Telephone 055: 06 49711 for information.
Average
Temperatures (In Fahrenheit):
¡¡
| ¡¡ |
High |
Low |
| January - March |
55F |
32F |
| April - June |
79F |
48F |
| July - September |
82F |
61F |
| October - December |
63F |
36F |
¡¡When to Go:
The main tourist season runs from April to mid-October. The best
months for persons wishing to avoid crowds are from fall to
early spring. April, May, June, September, and October, are
generally pleasant and not too hot. The hottest months are July
and August, when brief afternoon thunderstorms are common.
Winters are relatively mild but always include some periods of
rain. Tourists crowd Florence at Easter, when Italians flock to
resorts and to the country. From March through May, busloads of
eager schoolchildren on excursion travel to Florence. If you can
avoid it, don't chose to travel in Italy in August, when many
store and restaurant owners close for a vacation., especially
around Ferragosto, the August 15 national holiday. (Of course,
with residents away on vacation, there are fewer crowds.)
Packing:
The weather is considerably milder in Florence than in the north
and central United States or Great Britain. In summer, take
clothing that is as light as possible, although a sweater may be
necessary in evening. Brief summer afternoon thunderstorms are
common, so carry an umbrella. During the winter bring heavy
clothes, gloves, hats, and boots. Central heating may not
provide consistent warmth, and interiors can be cold and damp.
Take wools or flannel rather than sheer fabrics. Bring sturdy
shoes for winter, and comfortable walking shoes in any season.
Italians dress
neatly and dress well. They do not usually wear shorts in the
city. Men aren't required to wear ties or jackets anywhere,
except in some of the more exclusive hotel dining rooms and
top-level restaurants, but are expected to look reasonably
attired. Formal wear is the exception rather than the rule at
the opera, though people in expensive seats usually do get
dressed up. Dress codes are strict for visits to churches. Women
must cover bare shoulders, but no longer need to cover their
heads. Shorts are not acceptable church attire for men or women.
Take your own soap if you stay in budget hotels, as many do not
provide it or else give guests only one tiny bar per room.
Taxes
IVA Value-added tax (IVA), is 12% on clothing, 19% on luxuries.
On most consumer goods, it is already included in the amount
shown on the price tag, whereas on services, it may not be.
To get an IVA
refund, when you are leaving Italy take the goods and the
invoice to the customs office at the airport or other point of
departure and have the invoice stamped. (If you return to the
United States or Canada directly from Italy, go through the
procedure at Italian customs; if your return is, say, via
Britain, take the Italian goods and invoice to British customs.)
Under Italy's IVA-refund system, a non-EU resident can obtain a
refund of tax paid after spending a total of 300,000 lire in one
store (before tax-and note that price tags and prices quoted,
unless otherwise stated, include IVA). Shop with your passport
and ask the store for an invoice itemizing the article(s),
price(s), and the amount of tax. Once back home-and within 90
days of the date of purchase-mail the stamped invoice to the
store, which will forward the IVA rebate to you. A growing
number of stores in Italy (and Europe) are members of the
Tax-Free Shopping System, which expedites things by providing an
invoice that is actually a Tax-Free Check in the amount of the
refund. Once stamped, it can be cashed at the Tax-Free Cash
refund window at major airports and border crossings.
National and
Local Holidays:
Jan. 1 - New Year's Day
Jan. 6 - Epiphany
Good Friday and Easter Monday dates vary each year - Mar. or
April
April 25 - (Liberation Day);
1st Mon. of May - Labor Day
Many businesses and shops in Florence may be closed on June 24,
the feast day of St. John the Baptist, the city's patron saint.
June 29 - SS. Peter and Paul's Day
August 15 - Feast of the Assumption; also known as Ferragosto
November 1 - All Saints' Day
December 8 - Feast of the Immaculate Conception
Dec. 25 - Christmas Day
Dec. 26 - St. Stephen's Day, Boxing Day
Electricity:
To use U.S.-purchased electric-powered equipment, bring a
converter and an adapter. The electrical current in Italy is 220
volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take
plugs with two round prongs.
Police:
For emergencies, dial 112 for the Carabinieri (police). To
report lost property or passport problems, call the questura
urban police headquarters at 055--49-771.
Emergencies:
Dial 113 for an emergency of any kind, dial an ambulance at 118,
and report a fire at 115. All these calls are free from any 055.
For car breakdowns, call ACI at 116.
Hospitals:
Tourist Medical Service, Via Lorenzo il Magnifico 59, north of
the city center between the Fortezza del Basso and Piazza della
Libert` 055--475-411, is open 24 hours; take bus no. 8 or 80 to
Viale Lavagnini or bus no. 12 or night bus no. 91 to Via
Poliziano. Socialized medicine enables a person with an illness
that is not an emergency to receive care at most Italian
hospitals, speedily with no insurance questions asked, no forms
to fill out, and no fee charged. A prescription is dispensed by
medical personnel. The most central are the Arcispedale di Santa
Maria Nuova 055--27-581, a block northeast of the Duomo on
Piazza Santa Maria Nuova, and the Misericordia Ambulance Service
055--212-222 for ambulance on Piazza del Duomo across from
Giotto's bell tower.
For a free
translator to help you describe your symptoms, explain the
doctor's instructions, and aid in medical issues in general,
call the Associazione Volontari Ospedalieri (AVO) at
055--425-0126 or 055--234-4567 Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 4
to 6pm and Tuesday and Thursday 10am to noon.
Pharmacies:
For pharmacy information, dial 110. There are 24-hour pharmacies
also open Sundays and state holidays in Santa Maria Novella
train station 055--216-761; ring the bell between 1 and 4am; at
Piazza San Giovanni 20r, just behind the Baptistry at the corner
of Borgo San Lorenzo 055--211-343; and at Via Cazzaiuoli 7r,
just off Piazza della Signoria 055--289-490.
Luggage
Storage/Lockers:
Travelers can leave bags at Santa Maria Novella train station
for a fee per bag for each 12-hour period; deposit payable up
front. It's open daily 4:30am to 1:30am.
Getting Around:
By air
The city is served by two airports: Amerigo Vespucci is a few
miles northwest of the city center, and Galileo Galilei (for
international flights) in Pisa is about 46mi west of the city.
Galilei has regular connections to London, Paris, Munich and
major Italian cities.
Aeroporto Amerigo
Vespucci
Via del Termine, 11 - 055. 373.498
www.safnet.it
Aeroporto Galileo
Galilei
Pisa 050-500707
www.pisa-airport.com
A city bus runs
every 20 minutes from the main train station to Amerigo Vespucci
airport. There is frequent train service between the main
station and Galileo Galilei airport.
By Train
Trains from all over Italy arrive and depart from Florence's
Santa Maria Novella Station. The pendolino (rapid intercity
trains) uses Florence's Rifredi Statiion. There are many passes
that can be purchased to effect great savings on rail travel.
Always buy a ticket before you board the train, as there is a
surcharge for purchasing on the train. Telephone reservations
are not accepted, but many trains require advance booking. There
are often long lines at the ticket window. The solution is to
have the reservation booked by a travel agent. There are Eurail
and InterRail cards that can be purchased before you depart the
United States. These may still require a supplemental fee.
Tickets for local rail travel can be purchased at news stands.
Italy's State Railway (FS) has a train for every type of
journey. Florence is connected by train to Rome, Milan, Venice,
Trieste, Verona, Bologna and Pisa.
By Bus
There are also two bus stations. For international services,
which go all over Europe, you need the Lazzi station - buses to
Rome also go from this station. For domestic services to Siena,
Arezzo, Castellina and all over Tuscany, go to the SITA station.
Buses (autobus) are useful only to reach outlying destinations
or to get to your hotel with luggage. Florence is a walkable
city, and many first-timers coming from Rome or Milan misjudge
distance and hop on a bus only to find themselves in the suburbs
or hills within minutes.
The train station
is the city's bus hub, and many buses pass through Piazza San
Marco as well, but the pedestrian zone historic center isn't
well serviced, though the new electric minibuses A, B, C, and D
do go into it. A single ticket is good for 60 minutes. There are
also a 3-hour ticket, a 24-hour ticket, and a 3-day pass. You
can ride unlimited buses within the time limits: just stamp one
end in the orange box on the first bus you board. Tickets are
available at newsstands and tabacchi tobacconists shops, marked
by a white "T" against brown.
Ask the tourist
office for a bus map. Regular buses run daily between 5:30 and
8am to between 7 and 9pm. Night buses include nos. 67, 68, and
71 running 9pm to 1am and no. 70 running 12:30 to 6am from the
main train station through the center to the suburban Campo
Marte station where some express and night trains stop. For more
information, contact the ATAF at Piazza della Stazione and
Piazza del Duomo 57 055--565-0222; www.comune.firenze.it/ataf
By Bicycle
Though traffic can be heavy on the narrow streets, the city is
mainly flat and not bad for biking.
By Car
Trying to drive in the centro storico is a frustrating, useless
exercise. Florence is a maze of one-way streets and pedestrian
zones, and it takes experience to know which laws to break in
order to get where you need to go. You need a permit to do
anything beyond dropping off and picking up bags at your hotel.
Again, Florence is a walking town, so park your vehicle in one
of the huge underground lots on the center's periphery and pound
the pavement. If you're traveling by car, you can take the A1 to
Bologna and Milan in the north or Rome and Naples in the south.
By Motorcycle &
Moped:
Motorini mopeds are the Italian way to get around and can be
especially useful for exploring the hills
By Taxi:
Taxis aren't cheap, and with the city so small and the one-way
system forcing drivers to take convoluted routes, they aren't an
economical way to get about town. Taxis are most useful to get
you and your bags between the train station and your hotel in
the centro storico. There's a taxi stand outside the train
station; otherwise you have to call for one a Radio Taxi at
4242, 4798, or 4390.
Enjoy Florence
Via del Canneto 7
167-274-819 or 800-274-819
Runs 3-hour walking tours of the centro storico Monday to
Saturday leaving at 10am from the Thomas Cook office off the
Ponte Vecchio.
I Bike Italy
055--234-2371
Offers leisurely 1-day bike tours of the Tuscan countryside one
up to Fiesole pausing for a picnic, the other into the Chianti
wine region and a 2-day bike trip from Florence to Siena.
The Accidental
Tourist
Tel 055--699-376 or 0348-659-0040;
Fax 055--699-048
Offers either a bike ride through the hills around Florence with
a countryside meal or a cooking course and lunch in the Chianti
by bus.
Some Areas
Outside Florence that are of Interest:
Fiesole
In the hilly valleys between the Arno and Mugnone rivers,
Fiesole offers spectacular views of nearby Florence and a
welcome retreat from the city's crowded streets. This is a place
to study the area's Etruscan, Roman and Renaissance past in
comfort and quiet. Fiesole has an impressive art museum and an
archaeological site featuring an Etruscan temple and the remains
of a Roman theatre and baths. Fiesole is especially popular as a
picnic spot, and its fascinating winding streets invite
exploration and walking.
Medici Villas
The Medicis built several opulent villas throughout the
countryside around Florence during the 15th and 16th centuries.
The Villa della Petraia, about 3.5km north of the city, is one
of the finest. It was commissioned by Cardinal Ferdinand de'
Medici in 1576, and features magnificent gardens.
Mugello Region
Northeast of Florence, the Mugello features some of the most
original villages in Tuscany. The Sieve River which winds
through the grape-filled valley is popular with canoeists.
Prato
Prato was founded by the Ligurians but was taken over by the
Etruscans and the Romans. In the 11th century it was an
important wool production center, and today it is still one of
Italy's major textile producers. The old, walled city contains
palaces, a municipal art gallery and a magnificent cathedral,
with a façade by della Robbia and frescoes by Filippo Lippi,
Uccello and Gaddi.. The center also features an imperial castle,
built during the 13th century.
Areas of
Florence:
The Duomo
The area surrounding Florence's cathedral is central to the rest
of the city. The Duomo is halfway between the two great churches
of Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce and as at the midpoint
between the Uffizi Galleries and the Ponte Vecchio to the south
and San Marco and the Accademia Gallery with Michelangelo's
David to the north. The streets north of the Duomo are long and
often clogged with traffic, and those to the south are a tangle
of alleys and tiny squares leading toward Piazza della Signoria.
This is one of the
most historic parts of town, and the streets still vaguely
follow the grid laid down when the city began as a Roman colony.
Via degli Strozzi/Via dei Speziali/Via del Corso was the
decumanus maximus, the main east-west axis; Via Roma/Via
Calimala was the key north-south cardo maximus. The site of the
Roman city forum is today's Piazza della Repubblica.
Currently thesquare
is lined with caf¨¦s. It was laid out by demolishing the Jewish
Ghetto during Italian unification in the late 19th century. With
the discovery of the lighting properties of neon gas, it bloomed
with unattractive signs. Fortunately, these have all been
removed. The area surrounding it is one of Florence's main
shopping zones. The Duomo neighborhood offers a range of hotels
from five-star luxury inns to student hostels.
Piazza Della
Signoria
This is the city's civic heart and very popular with museum
goers. It is the location of the Uffizi Galleries, Bargello
sculpture collection, and the Ponte Vecchio which leads toward
the Pitti Palace. Its clean, but narrow medieval streets are
those where Dante grew up.. The few blocks just north of the
Ponte Vecchio are known for the good shopping that is to be
found there. Much of the area was destroyed during World War II
and rubble was replaced with nondescript, modern buildings.
Crowds press in during the warm weather months, yet it remains
the romantic heart of pre-Renaissance Florence.
San Lorenzo &
the Mercato Centrale
This small wedge of streets between the train station and the
Duomo, centered around the Medici's old church of San Lorenzo
with its Michelangelo-designed tombs, is filled with markets.
The vast indoor food market is here, and most of the streets are
filled daily with hundreds of stalls where vendors loudly
proclaim the attributes of leather jackets and other wares. It's
a colorful neighborhood, and definitely not the quietest.
Piazza Santa
Trinita
This piazza is just off the river at the end of Florence's
shopping district, Via de' Tornabuoni, home to Gucci, Armani,
Ferragamo, Versace, to name a few. The ancient narrow streets
running out either side of the square are lined with the top
names in high fashion. It's very pleasant, well-to-do, but still
medieval. If you are in Florence to shop, there is no better
place to be.
Santa Maria
Novella
This neighborhood, bounding the western edge of the centro
storico, has a rundown zone around Santa Maria Novella train
station and a more attractive tourist area south of it between
the church of Santa Maria Novella and the river. In general, the
train station area is the least attractive part of town. Piazza
Santa Maria Novella and its tributary streets contain a somewhat
bohemian nightlife scene. Two of Florence's premier inns, the
Excelsior and the Grand, are on the Arno at Piazza Ognissanti,
just south of the train station
San Marco &
Santissima Annunziata
These two churches are fronted by Piazza San Marco, now a busy
traffic center, and Piazza Santissima Annunziata. Together they
define the northern limits of the centro storico. The
neighborhood is home to the University, Michelangelo's David at
the Accademia, the San Marco monastery, and long quiet streets.
Santa Croce
This eastern edge of the centro storico runs along the Arno. The
Santa Croce church contains many fine examples of Florentine
art. The area's western edge abuts the medieval district around
Piazza della Signoria. Via Bentacordi/Via Torta actually trace
the outline of the old Roman amphitheater. Much of the district
was rebuilt after World War II in long blocks of yellow plaster
buildings with residential shops and homes. This neighborhood
also contains some of the best restaurants in the city.
The Oltrarno
"Across the Arno" is the artisans' neighborhood, packed with
workshops with craftspeople hand-carving furniture and
hand-stitching leather gloves. It began as a working-class
neighborhood to catch the overflow from the expanding medieval
city on the Arno's opposite bank, but it also became center for
the building of palaces at the edge of the countryside. The
largest of these, the Pitti Palace, later became the home of the
grand dukes and today houses a group of museums second only to
the Uffizi. Behind it visitors can enjoy the baroque fantasies
of the Boboli Gardens, Florence's best known park. Masaccio's
frescoes in Santa Maria della Carmine were some of the most
influential of the early Renaissance.
The Brownings lived
at Oltrarno from just after their secret marriage in 1847 until
Elizabeth died in 1861. The Oltrarno's lively tree-shaded
center, Piazza Santo Spirito, is a lined with bars and
restaurants, and good nightlife. Its Brunelleschi-designed
church, Santo Spirito, is stunning in its sinmplicity.
In the Hills
From just about anywhere in the center of Florence, it is
apparent that the city ends abruptly to the north and south,
replaced by green hills spotted with villas, small farms, and
the expensive modern homes of the upper-middle class. To the
north rises Monte Ceceri, mined for the soft gray pietra serena
that accented so much of Renaissance architecture and home to
the village of Settignango, where Michelangelo began his life.
The Etruscan village of Fiesole, was here long before the Romans
built Florence in the valley below. Across the Arno, the hills
surrounding the Oltrarno are dotted with little patches of
fields and farms. The hills offer some of the best walks around
the city.
There is little or
no public transportation available in the hill country. This can
be an advantage in terms of serenity and privacy, but it does
curtail visits to the city for those who have come to sightsee.
Notable
Florentine Sculpture in the Plazza della Signoria:
The plaza is an outdoor sculpture gallery, which, with the
Palazzo Vecchio, has been at the center of Florentine politics
since the 14th century. Citizens gathered there when called to a
public meeting (parlamento) by the Palazzo's great bell. Some of
the statues are originals, others are copies. All commemorate
the city's historical events. Many are linked to the rise and
fall of the Florentine Republic. during which the religious
leader, Savonarola, was burned at the stake.
Fontana dei
Neptuno Neptune Fountain:
1560-75, created by Bartolomeo Ammannati as a tribute to Cosimo
I's naval ambitions but nicknamed by the Florentines Il
Biancone, "Big Whitey." The highly Mannerist bronzes surrounding
the basin are much finer pieces of sculpture, probably because a
young Giambologna participated in their creation.
At the piazza's
south end, beyond the long U that opens down the Uffizi, is one
of the square's earliest embellishments: the 1376-82 Loggia dei
Lanzi, named after the Swiss guard of lancers lanzi Cosimo de'
Medici stationed here. The airy loggia was probably built on a
design by Andrea Orcagna another is the Loggia della Signoria.
The three huge arches of its simple harmonious form were way
ahead of the times, an architectural style that really belongs
to the Renaissance.
Perseus for many
years stood in the arcade holding out the severed Medusa's head
before him. The open arcade of the Uffizi is filled with
statuary. The front left corner was the former prize position of
Benvenuto Cellini's masterpiece in bronze. In 1996, Perseus was
removed from the place it had occupied since Cellini finished it
in 1545 and taken to the Uffizi labs for cleaning.. A copy will
take its place in the outdoor area.
Rape of the
Sabines:
On the far right of the loggia is Giambologna's the last great
piece of original statuary left on the piazza. This marble group
is one of the most successful Mannerist sculptures in existence.
A walk around the piece provides a chance to appreciate its
action and artistry from different angles.
Caffe Rivoire:
And, finally, a resting place at which to enjoy a cup of coffee
or an ice cream and observe and absorb the wonders of the Piazza
della Signoria.
Archeological
Museum:
Villa della Colonna 36
055-23575
Tues-Sat 9-2 Sun. 9-8
The Museum
garden:
The Museum is situated in Palazzo della Crocetta (with its
unusual design in the shape of the cross), which was built by
Giulio Parigi for the Archduchess Maria Maddalena d'Austria
(1620). Entrance is from Via della Colonna near piazza
SS.Anunziata, where there is also a railed-off garden containing
several Etruscan tombs that have been reconstructed using as
much of the original material as possible. It is one of the most
important museums in the world in terms of displaying the art
and civilization of the Etruscan. It contains many fine examples
of Greek art as well.
The Egyptian Museum
is on the first floor; the collection was formed by merging the
Nizzoli and Schiapparelli collections. Additionally, a series of
excavations carried out between 1828-29 by Ippolito Rossellini
with François Champollion, the scholar who decoded hieroglyphics
provided material for the collection. A victim of the 1966
flood, the museum has since been carefully restored and is now
able to exhibit all of its treasures to the public.
Badia
Fiorentina:
Via Dante Alighieri and Via del Proconsolo
055-287-389
Admission Free. Open for Mass only.
The slender pointed bell tower of this Benedictine abbey founded
in A.D. 978 is one of the landmarks of the Florentine skyline.
Arnolfo di Cambio was responsible for a late Romanesque overhaul
of the church in 1284-1310, but Matteo Segaloni completely
reconstructed the interior in the Baroque style in the 17th
century.
It was here, some
say, that Dante first saw his beloved Beatrice, and where
Boccaccio used to lecture on Dante's Divine Comedy. The church's
best known work is a 1485 Filippino Lippi painting of the
Madonna Appearing to St. Bernard. An unmarked door on the right
side of the sanctuary leads to the stairs to the upper loggia of
the Chiostro degli Aranci. Bernardo Rossellino designed these
cloisters 1432-38, and they contain an anonymous 15th-century
fresco cycle on the Life of St. Benedict.
Baptistry San
Giovanni:
Piazza del Duomo
055-230-2885
Mon-Sat 12:30-6:30; Sun: 8:30-1:30, on Sunday 9-12.30.
The city's oldest monument, built in the 4th or 5th century.
Once it was even believed to date from the Roman times. The
round arched Romanesque decoration on the exterior dates from
between 1059 and 1150. It was encased with marble in the 11th or
12th century. The dome has an inside diameter of 25 meters
(82ft) and is decorated with 13th century mosaics.
The Bardini
Museum:
Piazza de' Mozzi
055-234-2427
9-2; Sun. 8-1
A short walk from Piazza Poggi along Lungarno Serristori or Via
San Niccol¨° in the direction of the city center. Built in the
19th century, the palace itself is unusual because all the
doors, windows, architraves and wooden ceilings used for its
construction came from destroyed churches or villas. The Museum,
which was opened in 1925, contains many interesting works of
art, among them the marble Charity by Tino da Camaino (1329 c.),
the Archangel St. Michael by Antonio del Pollaiolo and a
recently restored Crucifixion, dating from the 13th century:
painted several decades before Cimabue and a Madonna attributed
to Donatello. The museum was originally the house and warehouse
of antiquarian and art collector Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) who
left it and all its contents to the people of Florence.
Brancacci
Chapel:
Piazza del Carmine
(Not accessible for disabled)
055- 2382195
10-5; Holidays 1-5
Closed Tuesdays
The Church of St. Mary of Carmine is famous for The Life of St.
peter frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel, which were commissioned
around 1424. The scenes placed the artist, Masaccio at the
forefront of Renaissance painting. Many great artists, including
Leonardo and Michelangelo later visited the chapel to study his
work.
Cappelle Medicee
(Medici Chapels):
Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini
055- 2388602
8.30-5
Holidays 8.30-1:30
Admission charged.
San Lorenzo:
The church of St Lawrence is probably Florence's oldest church,
consecrated by St Ambrosia in 393. Rebuilt in the 11th century
and built in its present shape 1442-1446 to a harmonious design
by Brunelleschi, as a mausoleum for the Medici family.
Cardinal Giulio
de'Medici, who later became Pope Clement VII, commissioned
Michelangelo to build a new burial chapel for the Pope's father,
Giuliano; his father's brother, and two deceased cousins. The
result is the new Sacristy: a cascade of cut marble and
semiprecious stones--jasper, alabaster, mother-of-pearl, agate.
The work on the chapel, sacristy, and mausoleum kept marble
workers employed for several hundred years.
Biblioteca
Medicea-Laurenziana:
Through the San Lorenzo cloistered garden (by Brunelleschi) you
can enter the library that was founded by Cosimo il Vecchio. It
has a rich collection of medieval manuscripts and Renaissance
editions of classic works . One of Michelangelo's most important
designs, (1524-1578).
Casa Buonarroti:
Via Ghibellina 70
055--241-698
www.casabuonarroti.it
Though Michelangelo Buonarroti never actually lived in this
palazzo, he did own the property and left it to his nephew
Lionardo. Lionardo named his own son after his famous uncle, and
this younger Michelangelo became very devoted to the memory of
his namesake, converting the house into a museum and hiring
artists to fill it with frescoes honoring his uncle.
Chiesa di Santa
Maria Novella:
Plaza di Santa Maria Novella
055-210113
Church hours: 7-11:30am and 3:30-6pm Mon-Sat. Check for weekend
hours
Museum hours: 9-2 Mon-Thurs. Check for weekend hours.
The Church of St. Mary Novella was founded by the Dominicans in
the 13th century. Alberti built the white and green marble
facade in the 15th century. The frescoes depict the Dominicans
as the slender, fast running breed of hunting dogs known as
"whippets." The idea was to illustrate their virtues as "hounds
of God rounding up the 'stray sheep.'"
The Spanish chapel
has dramatic frescoes following the theme of salvation and
damnation. Dante's epic poem, The Divine Comedy inspired the
14th century frescoes in the Strozzi Chapel. The Tornabuoni
Chapel contains frescoes depicting The Life of John the Baptist.
As was commonly done, the artists inserted Florentine notables
and contemporary costume into their work. This is where the
young noblemen and women in the beginning part of Boccaccio's
masterpiece 'Decameron' locked themselves in, to avoid contact
with the 14th century plague, and told each other stories.
Church of Saint
Mark:
Piazza di San Marco
055-287628
Church: 7-12:30 and 4-8pm
Museum: 9-2 Tues-Sun.
The original structure dates from 1100. It became the Church and
Monastery of St. Mark in 1299, later passing under the
protection of the Medici family in the early 15th century when
Cosimo the Elder started using it regularly for his spiritual
retreats. The church had been taken over by the Dominican friars
a few years earlier and Cosimo gave Michelozzo the commission of
restoring it (1436-43).
Fra Angelico, a
friar and artist who, like Giotto, came from the Mugello, lived
at the monastery during this period (
The Church of
San Minias al Monte:
Via del Monte alle Croci
8-noon and 2-7: summer
8-noon and 2:30-6: winter
Built in 1018 and continued until 1207, over the shrine of the
early Christian martyr, St. Minias, the church is one of the
finest examples of pure Florentine Romanesque architecture. The
facade was fashioned out of white Carrara and green Prato marble
(12th-13th centuries) and divided into two sections linked
together by inlaid geometric patterning, in the same system used
during the Roman Empire for building walls. Palazzo dei Vescovi
or the Bishops' Palace stands on the right. It can be visited by
ringing at the door inside the church and is staffed by Olivetan
monks, who also take care of the basilica.
Church of
SS.Annunziata:
Piazza della SS. Annunziata
055-239-8034
7-12:30 and 4-6:30 Mon-Sat
4-5:30 Sun.
The church stands on the site of the oratory of the Servi di
Maria (1235) which was built around the image of Our Lady of the
Annunciation by seven young noblemen who decided to take
monastic vows and give up worldly pleasures. As a further
sacrifice, they later founded the Monastery of Monte Senario,
above Fiesole. Michelozzo built the First Cloister in the mid
15th century. The main body of the Church, started in 1440 by
Michelozzo and Pagno Portigiani, was later altered by Alberti.
Collezione della
Ragione (Modern Art Collection):
Piazza Signoria, 5 (above the Casa di Risparmio bank)
(Not accessible for disabled)
055- 283078
9-2 and on Holidays 8-1l; Closed Tuesdays
Still lifes by DePisis, landscapes by Carlo Carra, Tuscan
landscapes by Mario Mafai, Antonio Donghi an d Ottone Rosai,
paintings by Renato Guttuso, and Emilio Vedova.
Convento di San
Marco:
Dominican convent and church, built for Cosimo il Vecchio and
his son Lorenzo il Magnifico, by Michelozzo, in early
Renaissance style, 1437-1452. The convent walls are decorated by
one of its friars, Fra Angelico, in late Gothic style, 1400-1455
(Museo di San Marco). The Baroque church facade dates from 1780,
the church interior was constructed in the 16th and 17th
century.
Frescoes:
Frescoes were made by painting onto a thin layer of damp,
freshly laid plaster. (Fresco means "fresh"). Pigments were
drawn into the plaster by surface tension, and the color became
fixed as the plaster dried. The pigments reacted with the lime
in the plaster to produce strong, vivid colors. Because the
colors do not lie close to the surface, restorers are able to
clean the plaster and remove soot and grime to reveal the
original, embedded colors. Artists used rare, costly minerals to
create the bright pigments. The base coat of plaster was made of
clay, hair , sand and lime and called "arriccio." The top or
finish coat of plaster was lime based and of a fine quality. It
was called "intonaco."
Galleria
dell'Accademia:
Via Ricasoli, 60
9-2 closed on Monday.
The Accademia di Belle Arti was founded in 1563 and was Europe's
first school of drawing. The Academy Gallery houses works of
Italian sculptors like Michelangelo (main gallery), including
the original David. After an attempted hammer attack by a
disturbed visitor in 1991, the masterpiece was relegated to a
protective position behind a fence of Plexiglas. It is a little
harder to view the statue under the present circumstances, but
it is still possible to study its perfect form and fluid
movement.
History of
Photography Museum:
Via della Vigna Nuova, 16
055- 218975
10-19.30 daily; Fri./Sat. 10-23.30
Closed Wednesdays
This museum is devoted to the history of photography. Exhibits
come from the archives of the Alinari brothers who founded the
world's first photography society in 1852.
Loggia del
Bigallo:
In the 15th century homeless or lost children were publicly
displayed under this portico. When no parents claimed them for
three days, they were taken to a foster family. built between
1352 and 1358 by Alberto Arnoldi. The paintings that used to be
on the facade are now exhibited in a museum inside. They show
the life of St Peter Martyr, who founded the Compagnia Maggiore
di St-Maria del Bigallo to fight heresy.
Marino Marini
Museum:
Piazza S. Pancrazio
(Disabled access)
055- 219432
10-1 and 3-6 (summer)
Closed on Tues. and for 2 weeks in August
The former church of San Pancrazio has been turned into a museum
devoted to the work of Italy's best known abstract artist,
Marino Marini (1901-1980). Marini studied art in Florence before
moving on to teach in Monza and at the prestigious Berea Academy
in Milan. He is noted for his bronzes, many on the theme of
horse and rider.
Mercato Nuovo:
Built 1547-1551 by Giovanni Battista del Tasso. The market is
locally known as the 'Porcellino' (swine) because of the
fountain by Pietro Tacca, 1612. It is said that everyone who
rubs the well polished snout of Il Porcellino, is certain to
return to the city. Coins dropped in the trough below are
distributed to city charities.
The Monumental
Cemetery:
The Monumental Cemetery (known as "of the Holy Gates") outside
the Basilica was established inside the fortified enclosure
created by Michelangelo in 1529. Designed by architect Nicol¨°
Matas during the period in which he was working on the facade of
Santa Croce, it contains the remains of many celebrities like
Papini, Montale, Stibbert, Villari and Lorenzini (known as "il
Collodi", the creator of Pinocchio). The various family chapels
belonging to the Florentine bourgeoisie can be said to represent
a repertoire of city architecture of the time.
Museum of
Florence As It Was and Oblate Garden:
Via Oriuolo, 4
(Disabled access)
055- 2616545
9-2 - Holidays 8-1
Closed Thursdays
The museum is small, and contains a series of watercolors and
also paintings by Ottone Rosai, a local artist who died in 1957.
The main feature is a room sized painting of Florence at the
height of the Renaissance.
Santa Croce:
Piazza Santa Croce
055--244-619
Building of this Franciscan church started probably by Arnolfo
di Cambio, the architect of the Duomo, in 1294. The marble
facade and the bell tower were built between 1853 and 1863. The
church contains frescos by Giotto, many tombstones and
commemorative monuments, including those of Galileo, Rossini,
Macchiavelli's tomb, and Vasari's monument to Michelangelo, who
died in Rome but was brought to Florence to be buried here, by
Cosimo I. The collection of art in this church complex is by far
the most important of any church in Florence.
Museo dell'Opera
di Santa Croce:
Piazza Santa Croce 16
055--244-619
Mon-Sat 9:30-12:15 and 3:30-5:30 Sun.: 3-5:30.
Part of Santa Croce's convent has been set up as a museum for
artistic treasures that were damaged in the 1966 Arno flood,
which buried the church under tons of mud and water. The
entrance through a door to the right of the church facade,
spills into an open-air courtyard planted with cypress. On the
grass are a seated Baccio Bandinelli God in marble and a Henry
Moore bronze.
At the end of the
path is the Cappella de' Pazzi, one of Filippo Brunelleschi's
architectural masterpieces. Giuliano di Maiano probably designed
the porch that leads to the chapel, which is set with glazed
terra cottas by Luca della Robbia. The rectangular chapel is one
of Brunelleschi's signature pieces and a defining example of
early Renaissance architecture. Light gray pietra serena is used
to accent the architectural lines against smooth white plaster
walls. The the only decorations are della Robbia roundels of the
Apostles (1442-52). The Evangelists surrounding the dome may
have been designed by Donatello or Brunelleschi himself before
being produced by the della Robbia workshop.
On the right as you
enter the chapel is the painting that became the representative
of all the artworks damaged during the 1966 flood: Cimabue's
Crucifix, one of the masterpieces of the artist who began
bridging the gap between Byzantine tradition and Renaissance
innovation.
Horne Museum:
Via de' Benci, 6
055- 244661
9-13 Sum. Tuesdays also 20.30-23
Closed Holidays and Sun.
Of the city's several small once-private collections, the one
formed by Englishman Herbert Percy Horne and left to Florence in
his will has several excellent pieces.
An excursion to
Lucca:
Lucca, the medieval City of Silk, is an 80 minute train ride
from Florence, and an excellent area to explore when traveling
with the family. Lucca is in the northern part of the province
of Tuscany. it became a colony of ancient Rome in 180 BC, and
still contains much architecture in the Romanesque style. I has
an outstanding cathedral which was constructed in the 11th
century. Lucca is enclosed by massive red brick walls, which
seem to shut out the modern world. A promenade runs along the
top of these city walls and features a double row of stately
trees along a broad avenue. Other attractions include:
Pinocchio Park
Collodi (outside Lucca) (Tour available from Lucca)
0572-42-93-42
Open daily
Admission charged
Theme park consisting of gardens featuring mosaics and
sculptures based on the Adventures of Pinocchio. there is also a
maze; a playground, an exhibition center and children's
restaurant.
Excursion to Poppi:
The town of Poppi in eastern Tuscany can be reached from
Florence by taking a train to Arezzo, and then either renting a
car or taking a train to Poppi. There is irregular bus service,
as well. Poppi is readily accessible by car , and is only a
short distance from Arezzo. The older part of Poppi is located
high above the bus and train terminal. Eastern Tuscany is an
area of huge forests and tiny mountain pastures. It is the
region of Pierro della Francesca. His frescoes in Arezzo are
outstanding. The village of
Poppi is the site of an imposing castle:
Castello di
Poppi
05752-02-94
April-Sept. daily
Oct.-March: Sat and Sun, or by appointment
Admission charged.
Castello di
Romena
0575-586-33
open daily.
This is the castle where Dante stayed as a guest of the local
rulers in the 14th century. The village church connected with
the castle dates back to 1152.
Zoo Fauna Europa
0575-52-90-79
Open daily
This zoo specializes in the conservation of wildlife and
protects endangered species. Among its current subjects for
protection are the Apennine wolf and the lynx.
For upcoming events, shows, theater, exhibitions, and other
entertainment, look for one of the events magazines, like Events
in Florence and Tuscany bimonthly and very good, sometimes at
newsstands and Vista. Another free magazine is Concierge
Information, full of good bilingual hints and tips. At the Via
Cavour tourist office you can also pick up the free Firenze
Avventimenti events brochure, giving facts about each major
event for the year, including contact 055 numbers. Also the free
"Informacitt¨¤" monthly pamphlet.
Jan. 5-6:
Epiphany Celebrations. Roman Catholic Epiphany celebrations and
decorations are evident throughout the area.
Easter:
The Easter Sunday Scoppio del Carro, or "Explosion of the Cart,"
is the eruption of a cartful of fireworks in the Cathedral
Square, set off by a mechanical dove released from the altar
during High Mass.
Late April.-Early July:
The Florence May Music Festival is the oldest and most
prestigious Italian festival of the performing arts.
Late June:
Soccer Games in 16th Century Costume, commemorate a match played
in 1530. Festivities include fireworks displays.
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