Marseille, France
Known as the heart of the Mediterranean, Marseille is the
oldest city in France. This bustling metropolis with more than a
million inhabitants, is France's second-largest and its premier
port. Marseille is a place of unique sounds, smells, and sights.
It is a dynamic city, as cosmopolitan now as when ancient
Phocaeans first founded it as an international shipping port
2,600 years ago.
The topography of the area has changed over the centuries:
originally the port extended to what is now the Centre Bourse.
Until the middle of the nineteenth century, all of the town's
marine activities took place here.
Today, pleasure boats are moored beside fishing boats, and
every morning the fishermen sell their catch at the renowned
local fish market. The town hall, situated on the right bank,
looks onto the Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica which dominates
the south bank and provides a panoramic view of Marseilles.
The attractions of the city are largely concentrated around
the port, including the opera house, museums, galleries,
theatres, monuments (such as Pharos Palace, various forts, St
Victors Abbey) as well as the Panier district where the ancient
Phocaeans first settled. Beside the Hôtel-Dieu, which dates back
to the 18th Century, and the Accoules bell tower constructed
between the 17th and 19th Centuries, is a stairway typical of
old Marseilles that leads directly into the Panier district.
Place de Lenche is where the Greek agora (meaning
marketplace) of the ancient city once stood. The area still
bustles with life in the market, restaurants and theatre. At the
summit of the old town is Place des Moulins which in the 16th
Century was home to fifteen windmills making flour. Both the
windmills and the warehouses were demolished three centuries
later. It retains the tranquility of a village square, with its
fountain and local school.
The Vieux Port, the old harbor, is especially colorful, in
contrast to the somewhat dreary industrial dockland nearby. It
is also the destination of many North and sub-Saharan Africans,
who, along with the Italians, French, Lebanese and Armenians,
create a lively mix of races and creeds, that have always
harmonized.
Marseille is the most important port in the Mediterranean.
The major imports include petroleum, wine, fruits, and olive
oil. New industry has recently come in: Eurocopter, the world's
largest helicopter maker and Comex, a marine and nuclear
engineering group are recent additions to the economic life of
Marseilles.
Marseille today actually occupies twice the amount of land
space as Paris. In spite of the difficulties inevitably
associated with life in a large city, it is bustling, always
fascinating, and unlike any other in
France. The arts are coming
alive in Marseille! An abandoned, former cigar factory has been
named La Friche la Belle de Mai, and has opened recently as a
164,000 square foot space entirely dedicated to dance, theater,
music, film, visual arts, and literature. There are rooms for
rehearsals, performances, workshops, a radio station, and
lounges for conversation.
The city is a showpiece: a medley of brilliant white stone
rising above a picture perfect seaport framed by enormous
neo-Byzantine churches. The winding alleyways of the old town
reveal ancient buildings painted in broad strokes of saffron and
robin's-egg blue. It provides the perfect setting for its film
industry, because there is nothing artificial about Marseilles.
The town is filled with real beauty and raw energy. In 1998 the
World Cup was held in Marseille with four players on the winning
French team being natives of the city.
Marseilles will always be known for its beaches, for its 35
miles of gorgeous coastline, and for its superb bouillabaisse.
It is emerging now as a dynamic creative center for musicians,
filmmakers, theater directors, and fashion and furniture
designers. The exciting story of this new Marseilles is now
unfolding. What a perfect time to visit!
Population:
807,071 in the city center; over 1,000,000 if the surrounding
area of the city is included.
Departement:
Bouches du Rhône
Location:
On highway A7 and route N7; 479 miles S of Paris, 116 miles SW
of Nice, 19 miles S of Aix-en-Provence
Time Zone:
Greenwich Mean Time plus one hour. The French equivalent of
daylight saving time lasts from around April to September, which
puts it 1 hour ahead of French winter time. Depending on the
time of year, France is 6 or 7 hours ahead of U.S. eastern
standard time.
Dialing Code:
The zone prefix for
Marseille is 04. Dial the full 10 digit
number (which includes this prefix) for local calls. The country
code is 33. (use the country code only when calling Marseille
from another country).
Currency:
Currency is the Euro (EUR). The notes are in denominations of
500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5 euro. The denominations of
coins are 2 euro, 1 euro, 50 euro cent, 20 euro cent, 10 euro
cent, 5 euro cent, 2 euro cent, and 1 euro cent. The easiest
method of securing cash at the best exchange rate is to make
withdrawals using a US credit card from the ATM machines found
at the major banks and stores.
Customs
Regulations:
Tele 01 43 12 22 22 for information Mon.-Fri. 9-3.
Climate:
The Mediterranean coast has the driest climate in France. Most
rain falls in spring and autumn. Summers are comfortably dry.
Provence experiences le mistral (a cold, violent wind from the
French and Swiss Alps that blows south down the Rhône Valley).
It most often blows in winter, sometimes for a few days, but
sometimes for up to 2 weeks.
Average
Temperatures (In Fahrenheit):
¡¡
| ¡¡ |
High |
Low |
| January - March |
59F |
35F |
| April - June |
79F |
46F |
| July - September |
84F |
63F |
| October - December |
68F |
37F |
¡¡National Holidays:
In France, holidays are known as jours feri¨¦s. Shops and many
businesses (banks and some museums and restaurants) close on
holidays, but hotels and emergency services remain open.
¡¡
New Year's Day Jan
1
Easter Sunday (varies) and Easter Monday
V-E Day in Europe May 8
Whit Monday mid May
Ascension Thursday 40 days after Easter
Bastille Day July 14
Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Aug 15
All Saints' Day Nov 1
Armistice Day Nov 11
Christmas Dec 25.
Business Hours:
Most banks are open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 4:30pm.
Many, particularly in smaller towns or villages, take a lunch
break at varying times. Hours are usually posted on the door.
Most museums close 1 day a week (often Tuesday), and they're
usually closed on national holidays. Usual hours are 9:30am to
5pm. Some museums, particularly the smaller ones, close for
lunch from noon to 2pm. Most French museums are open on
Saturday; many are closed Sunday morning but open Sunday
afternoon. Offices are, in general, open Monday to Friday from
9am to 5pm, but always call first. In some small stores, the
lunch break can last 3 hours, beginning at 1pm.
Drugstores:
In France they are called pharmacie. Pharmacies take turns
staying open at night and on Sunday; the local Commissariat de
Police will tell you the location of the nearest one.
Electricity:
In general, expect 200 volts, 50 cycles, though you'll encounter
110 and 115 volts in some older establishments. Adapters are
needed to fit sockets. Many hotels have two-pin (in some cases,
three-pin) sockets for electric razors. It's best to ask your
hotel concierge before plugging in any appliance.
Emergencies:
In an emergency while at a hotel, contact the front desk to
summon an ambulance or do whatever is necessary. But for
something like a stolen wallet, go to the police station in
person. Otherwise, you can get help anywhere in France by
calling tel. 17 for the police or tel. 18 for the fire
department (pompiers).
Mail:
Most post offices in France are open Monday to Friday from 8am
to 7pm and Saturday from 8am to noon. You can exchange money at
post offices. Many hotels sell stamps, as do local post offices
and cafes displaying a red "tabac" sign outside.
Newspapers/Magazines:
Most major cities carry copies of the International Herald
Tribune, USA Today, and usually a major London paper or two.
Nearly all big-city newsstands also sell copies of Time and
Newsweek
Safety:
Those intending to visit the south of France, especially
Marseille, should exercise extreme caution: robberies and
muggings here are commonplace. It's best to check your baggage
into a hotel and then go sightseeing instead of leaving it
unguarded in the trunk of a car, which can easily be broken
into.
Taxes:
As a member of the European Union, France routinely imposes a
value-added tax (VAT) on many goods and services. The standard
VAT on merchandise is 20.6%. Refunds are made for the tax on
certain goods, but not on services. The minimum purchase is
1,200F ($204) for nationals or residents of countries outside
the EU
Telephone:
You'll find public phone booths in cafes, restaurants, post
offices, airports, and train stations and occasionally on the
streets. Pay phones accept coins of 1/2F, 1F, 2F, and 5F; the
minimum charge is 1F (15¢). Pick up the receiver, insert the
coin(s), and dial when you hear the tone, pushing the button
when there's an answer.
The French also use
a t¨¦l¨¦carte, a phone debit card, which can be purchased at rail
stations, post offices, and other places. Sold in two versions,
it allows you to use either 50 or 120 charge units (depending on
the card) by inserting the card into the slot of most public
phones. Depending on the type of card you buy, they cost 41F to
98F ($6.95 to $16.65).
When calling from
outside France, dial the international access code for your
country, the country code for France (33), and then the last
nine digits of the number, dropping the 0 (zero) from the area
code.
Tipping:
All bills, as required by law, are supposed to say service
compris, which means that the tip has been included.
Getting There:
¡¡
By Air
The Marseille airport 04-42-14-14-14, 18 miles north of the
center in Marignane, receives international flights from all
over Europe. From the airport, blue-and-white minivans
(navettes) make the trip from a point in front of the arrivals
hall to Marseille's St-Charles rail station near the Vieux Port
for a low one-way fee. The minivans run daily at 20-minute
intervals, 6:20am to 10:50pm. St. Charles Train Station: 3hr. 50
minutes from Paris by TGV (high speed train).
By Train
For rail information and schedules 08-36-35-35-35. The city is
the terminus for the TGV bullet train, which departs daily from
Paris's Gare de Lyon (trip time: 4 3/4 hrs.). Local trains from
Paris arrive almost every hour. Marseille has especially good
train connections to and from Italy.
By Bus
Buses pull into the Gare Routi¨¨re, on the place Victor Hugo
04-91-08-16-40), adjacent to the St. Charles railway station.
By Automobile
Take the A7 autoroute into Marseille.
Districts of
Marseille:
There are 111 different districts in Marseille, of which the
following are the most frequently visited:
Le Vieux Port
The old port is one of the best-known parts of Marseilles and
its streets are lined with restaurants and caf¨¦s. In the
mornings, fishermens wives auction off their wares in the fish
market opposite the boats.
La Canebi¨¨re
This is the most famous road in town. Along it you will see
shopping streets such as Rue St Ferr¨¦ol, and the Mus¨¦e de la
Mode, the Mus¨¦e de la Marine, and the Op¨¦ra.
Le Panier
A walk through this popular district, close to the old port,
takes you around the Provençal pedestrian streets lined with
multi-colored buildings. The Clocher des Accoules, la place des
Moulins, la Vieille Charit¨¦ and la Major are all rich in
history.
La Joliette
The Joliette docks are the long red brick buildings along the
motorway footbridge. The 4 blocks of buildings were built in the
nineteenth century and the interiors have been completely
renovated. The Mus¨¦e des Docks Romains charts the history of the
port of Marseille.
La Plaine
In Marseille, Place Jean Jaures is also known as La Plaine. This
huge square has a market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays
and a busy shopping area at other times. In the adjacent
streets, there is a wide choice of restaurants, bars and pubs.
Le Cours Julien
Just along from La Plaine, le Cours Julien is where young people
like to go as there is a good variety of caf¨¦s, cabarets and
fringe theatres such as Chocolat-Th¨¦âtre. For concerts there is
Espace Julien. There are many antique shops and clothes
boutiques.
Castellane
Bars and cinemas such as C¨¦sar and the Prado keep this square at
the end of the Rue de Rome busy day and night.
Le Prado
People come to the Prado to see the buildings that line the main
road, the Boulevard P¨¦rier and the Rue Paradis. The Parc Bor¨¦ly
and its castle provide one of Marseilles biggest open spaces.
The racecourse here is also very popular.
Endoume
This district is dominated by Notre Dame de la Garde. The name
La Bonne M¨¨re (literally 'the Good Mother') comes from the
enormous statue of the Virgin Mary on top of the bell tower.
This church is an important site for pilgrims.
La Corniche
The Corniche (coastal road) winds along the Mediterranean coast
. Upscale villas are located in this district, as is the Mus¨¦e
d'Art Contemporain. From all directions, you can admire the open
sea.
Longchamp
Palais Longchamp is a favorite place for walks.You can also
visit the Mus¨¦e Grobet Labadi¨¦, the Mus¨¦e des Beaux Arts and the
Mus¨¦um d?Histoire Naturelle - the natural history museum which
used to be a zoo and has been converted into a park.
Sightseeing Tour
Histobus (L')
Espace info RTM 6-8, rue des Fabres
Rue des Fabres
Marseille, 13001
Neighborhood: 1st arrondissement
+33 4 91 91 92 10
M¨¦tro: Vieux-Port
Take a sight-seeing tour of Marseilles through the old port and
the old town Panier district. The bus tour takes in 28 of the
cities monuments, accompanied by a running commentary from your
driver, who knows the city and its history. Buses depart from
the Vieux-Port (the old port). If you are arriving by m¨¦tro,
come out of the station on the same side as the sea, opposite
the town hall. Disabled access is available.
Abbaye St-Victor
Place St.-Victor
04 96 11 22 60
Metro: Vieux-Port
Daily 8:30-7:15
Founded in the 4th century, this abbey grew in influence in the
ancient world. It was built above a crypt from the 5th century
foundation of the church. The basilica, an example of Romanesque
architecture, looks out from its vantage point on a ledge above
the sea. The Saracens destroyed the first structure, so the
abbey was rebuilt in the 11th century and fortified against
further onslaught in the 14th. Its crudely peaked windows
indicate the transition from Romanesque arches to Gothic points.
Basilique Notre
Dame de la Garde
Rue Fort du Sanctaire
04 91 13 40 80
7am-8 pm
Free admission
Metro: Vieux-Port; Bus: 60
This Romanesque-Byzantine style church stands on a limestone
rock perch overlooking the southern side of the Vieux-Port. It
was built in the 19th century and topped by a 30 foot statue of
the Virgin.
Mus¨¦e D'histoire
De Marseille (Marseille History Museum)
Centre Bourse, entrance on rue de Bir-Hakeim
04-91-90-42-22
Admission charged.
Mon.-Sat. noon-7.
This modern, open-spaced exhibition presents Marseille's history
through its treasure trove of archeological finds. Highlights
include ancient metallurgy, Gallo-Roman pottery making, and
shipbuilding. There is a section dedicated to medieval
Marseille, and some background on the influence of Louis XIV and
Vauban on the city. There is a recovered wreck of a Roman cargo
boat, its 3rd-century wood amazingly preserved, and the hull of
a Greek boat dating from the 4th century BC.
Centre De La
Vieille Charit¨¦ (Center of the Old Charity)
Designed as a hospice for the homeless, this superb example of
17th- and 18th-century architecture stands at the top of Le
Panier (the basket).
Under this complex's extensive roofs are two excellent museums.
(1) The larger
is the:
Mus¨¦e
d'Arch¨¦ologie M¨¦diterran¨¦enne (Museum of Mediterranean
Archaeology)
Centre Bourse, square Belsunce
04 91 90 42 22
Metro: Vieux-Port
Admission charged; children under 11 free
An amazing archeological garden where excavations are
continuing. The many exhibits span ancient Mediterranean
civilizations from ancient Egypt, Cyprus, Greece and Rome. These
include a sizable collection of ceramics, bronzes, funeral
stelae, amphorae, and sculptures. There are also mummies,
hieroglyphics, and gorgeous sarcophagi in an authentic tomb-like
setting.
(2) The second
museum is:
Mus¨¦e d'Arts
Africains, Oc¨¦aniens et Am¨¦rindiens
(Museum of African, Oceanian, and American Indian Art)
2 rue de la Charit¨¦
04-91-14-58-80.
Admission charged.
May-Sept., Tues.-Sun. 11-6; Oct.-Apr., Tues.-Sun. 10-5.
Has a very good and quite dramatic collection of masks and
sculptures.
Mus¨¦e des
Beaux-Artes
04-91-14-59-30
Admission charged. Children under 12 free.
June 15- Sept. 15: Tues-Sun. 11-7; Sept. 16-June 14: Tues-sun.
10-5
Metro: Cinq av. Longchamp or R¨¦form¨¦s
This museum is housed in a northern wing of the Palais
Longchamp. Its displays include a splendid array of paintings
from the 16th-19th centuries. Among these are works by Corot,
Davis, Rubens, and Miller. Sculptures are featured as well. One
room is devoted to the works of Honor¨¦ Daumier, born in
Marseilles in 1808.
Mus¨¦e Cantini
19 rue Grignan
04 91 54 77 75
Admission charged. Free for seniors and children 10 and under.
June-Sept Tues-Sun 11-6; Oct-May Tues-Sun 10-5.
Metro: Estrangin Pr¨¦fecture
The museum is devoted to modern art, with notable works by
Derain, Balthus, Ernst, Masson, and Marquet. It also displays
works by young international artists.
Mus¨¦e
Grobet-Labadîe
140 bd. Longchamp
04 91 62 21 82
Admission charged. Free for children under 11
June-Sept Tues-Sun 11-6; Oct-May Tues-Sun 10-5
M¨¦tro: R¨¦form¨¦s
This private collection was given to the city in 1919 and
includes Louis XV and Louis XVI furniture along with an
excellent collection of medieval Burgundian and Provençal
sculpture. Other exhibits are 17th century Gobelin tapestries;
15th-19th century German, Italian, French, and Flemish paintings
and 16th and 17th century Italian and French porcelain.
Mus¨¦e de la
Faïence
In the Chateau Pastr¨¦
157 av. de Montredon
Admission charged. Children under 11 free.
June-Sept. Tues-Sun 11-6; Oct-May Tues-Sun 10-5
M¨¦tro: R¨¦form¨¦s
One of the largest collections of porcelain in France. Its
pieces date from Neolithic times. Most are representative of the
18th and 19th centuries. The museum is located about 3 miles
south of the center of Marseilles in a manor house built in
1864.
Maison Diamant¨¦e
(Diamond House)
The name is the result of the museum's beveled-stone façade. The
collection includes beautifully carved wooden furniture, cr¨¨ches
and santons, and 19th-century clothes. Of particular interest is
a display of locally made playing cards; Marseille was one of
the medieval ports of entry for playing cards from the East.
Check with the tourist office for new hours. rue de la Prison,
04-91-13-89-00 info.
Eglise Orthodoxe
Russe Saint-Georges
16, rue Clapier
Marseille, 13001
Neighborhood: 1st arrondissement
m¨¦tro: R¨¦form¨¦s
This church is situated in the centre of Marseille in the
Saint-Charles district, near the train station of the same name.
On Saturdays, Vespers takes place at 5.30pm. On Sundays, the
Slavonic liturgy starts at 10am and the French at 2pm (apart
from on the first Sunday of every month). During the week, the
liturgy is at 10am.
Errahmaniya
4, rue du Bon Pasteur
Marseille, 13002
Neighborhood: 2nd arrondissement
+33 4 91 55 57 38
m¨¦tro: Jules Guesde
This mosque is situated in the Grands-Carmes district, in the
north of Marseille.
The Islamic service begins at 10am on Sunday.
Arts and
Entertainment:
Th¨¦âtre National
de la Cri¨¦e
30, quai Rive-Neuve
Marseille, 13007
Neighborhood: 7th arrondissement
+33 4 91 54 70 54
+33 4 91 54 27 17
This theatre takes its name from an old fish auction, which was
once situated here. Since 1981, this highly respected cultural
landmark has been an important cultural center of the city. The
programming is of good quality.
Espace Julien
39, cours Julien
Marseille, 13006
Neighborhood: 6th arrondissement
+33 4 91 24 34 15
+33 4 91 42 67 82
All types of music are represented here from rap to rai, jazz to
rock. The auditorium has 1000 seats alongside the 150 seater
cafe. In the heart of the plain, this up to date area caters for
all tastes. There are concerts throughout the year.
Shopping:
Vieux Port and the
streets surrounding it are filled with fascinating shops and
boutiques.
Art Galleries:
Galerie Cargo
55 rue Grignan
04-91-54-84-84
Where paintings from international artists are exhibited and
sold.
Galerie
Roger-Pailhas
61 cours Julien
04-91-42-18-01
Galerie
Wulfram-Puget
39 rue de Lodi
04-91-92-06-00
Antiques from around Provence are sold here.
Antiquites
Francois-Decamp
302 rue Paradis
04-91-81-18-00
Fashion:
The local fashion
industry is booming. The fashion center is found along Cours
Julien. Much of the clothing reflects North African influences,
although there is an array of French styles as well.
Folklore &
Souvenirs:
Especially popular
are the santons (carved wooden creche figurines). The best place
for acquiring them is just above the Vieux Port, behind the
Theatre National de la Criee. All the souvenir shops along the
pedestrian rue St-Fereol, running perpendicular to La Canebiere,
sell replicas of handcrafts from Old Provence, including the
cream-colored or pale-green bars of the city's local soap, savon
de Marseille.
Ateliers Marcel
Carbonel
47 rue Neuve-Ste-Catherine
04-91-54-26-58
More than 600 figures, available in half a dozen sizes.
La Savonnerie du
Serail
50 bd. Anatole de la Forge
04-91-98-28-25
Food &
Chocolate:
Amandine
69 bd. Eugene-Pierre
04-91-47-00-83
A photograph or a work of graphic art can be reproduced in
various shades of chocolate on top of a delicious layer cake in
any flavor you specify in advance.
Puyricard
25 rue Francis-Davso
04-91-54-26-25
Traditional pastries and chocolates with another location at 155
rue Jean-Mermoz
04-91-77-94-11
The treats available here include chocolates stuffed with almond
paste (pate d'amande) or confits de fruits, along with a type of
biscuit called une Marseillotte.
Le Four des
Navettes
136 rue Sainte
04-91-33-32-12
It opened in 1791 and is dedicated to perpetuating the city's
most cherished medieval myth and guarding the secret of how the
pastries are made. The boat-shaped cookies are sold by the
dozen.
Nightlife:
Brasserie
Vieux-Port New-York
33 quai des Belges
04-91-33-91-79
Members of Marseille's arts community gather here to chat with
friends.
Escale Bor¨¦ly
avenue Mend¨¨s-France
A waterfront development south of the town center. There are in
this area about a dozen cafes as well as a variety of
restaurants.
L'Assiette
Marine
04-91-71-04-04
A seafood restaurant with a separate bar area where fresh
oysters, clams, and chilled lobster are served.
Caf¨¦ de la Plage
in the Escale Bor¨¦ly
04-91-71-21-76
A 35-and-under crowd dance and enjoy life.
Metal Caf¨¦
20 rue Fortia
04-91-54-03-03
Where 20- to 50-year-olds listen to recent releases from London
and Los Angeles.
Trolley Bus
24 quai de Rive-Neuve
04-91-54-30-45
Is best known for its techno, house, punk rock, and retro music.
P¨ºle-M¨ºle
8 place aux Huiles
04-91-54-85-26
A many-faceted bar/disco/cafe and host of occasional live music.
La Cave ¨¤ Jazz
rue Bernard-du-Bois
04-91-39-28-28
Bar Eden
7 rue Curiol
04-91-47-30-06
O.M. Caf¨¦
3 Quai des Belges
04 91 33 80 33
Owned by a former Olympique Marseille soccer goal keeper; it is
decorated in blue and white, the team colors. Soccer matches
play on the TV, and fans pack the terrace.
Le Chocolat
Th¨¦âtre
59 cours Julien
04-91-42-19-29
A cabaret that presents broad humor, and occasional political
satire.
New Can Can
3-5 rue S¨¦nac
04-91-48-59-76
An enormous venue that's everybody's favorite dance emporium
Thursday to Sunday, from 11pm - dawn.
Th¨¦âtre de la
Girafe
Parc Longchamp, 43, rue B¨¦ranger
43, rue B¨¦ranger
Marseille, 13001
Neighborhood: 1st arrondissement
+33 4 91 87 32 22
m¨¦tro: Cinq-Avenues
On the grounds of the old zoological gardens of the town, in the
giraffe house called Suzie, a group of puppeteers from Bulgaria
produce shows through different personalities. For children aged
between 2-8 years old.
There are 2 shows a week in French. Reservations suggested.
Disabled access is available.
Parc Longchamp
Boulevard Longchamp
Marseille, 13001
Neighborhood: 1st arrondissement
+33 4 91 64 15 75
Formerly the site of a zoological park, these gardens are
situated behind Longchamp Palace - the sumptuous architectural
masterpiece from the Second Empire built to commemorate the
arrival of water in the city, and now home to both arts and
science museums. The wealth of waterfalls, fountains and
sculptures create a truly magical atmosphere, intoxicating every
visitor with surroundings reminiscent of the Italian
Renaissance. It is the perfect place to find relaxation. The
Marseilles Observatory in Place Leverrier which holds regular
planetarium shows is also nearby.
Pr¨¦au des
Accoules (Le)
29, mont¨¦e des Accoules
Marseille, 13002
Neighborhood: 2nd arrondissement
+33 4 91 91 52 06
M¨¦tro: Vieux-Port
Admission: Free
This museum is situated in the Panier district, near the foot of
the Mont¨¦e des Accoules. It is housed in an old religious
college dating back to the 17th century and is entirely
dedicated to children. Both recreational and educational
activities are organized to teach children from as young as four
about art in all its forms.
Pacific
Palissades
Port de la Pointe-Rouge
Marseille, 13008
Neighborhood: 8th arrondissement
+33 4 91 73 54 37
At "Pacific Palissades", in the small village of la
Pointe-Rouge, children over 7, can go out on sailing day trips.
For the more adventurous, wind-surfing is also available.
Parc Bor¨¦ly
134, avenue Clot-Bey
Marseille, 13008
Neighborhood: 8th arrondissement
+33 4 91 25 26 34
M¨¦tro: Rond-Point-du-Prado
This magnificent 54-hectare park to the south of the city was
designed by landscape gardener Alphan. Water is a major feature
here, not least of which is the lake and the ponds where you can
go rowing. An eighteenth-century country house stands in the
heart of this open space, complemented beautifully by a garden
"¨¤ la française" and a nineteenth-century landscaped park. Other
points of interest include botanical gardens with a rose garden
and tropical greenhouse (admission: 10F (EUR 1.52)).
Children love coming here to feed the ducks, take the go-carts
for a spin, or watch the model boats sailing on the lake.
Admission: Free
January:
Monte Carlo Motor Rally
The world's oldest car race.
For more information, call 92-16-61-66
Usually in mid-January.
February:
F¨ºte de la Chandeleur (Candlemas)
Basilique St-Victor, Marseille
A celebration in honor of the arrival in Marseille of the three
Marys. A procession brings the Black Virgin up from the crypt of
the abbey.
For more information, call 04-91-13-89-00
Early February.
April:
F¨¦ria Pascale (Easter Bullfighting Festival)
Arles
This is a major bullfighting event that includes not only
appearances by the greatest matadors but also abrivados and
bodegas (wine stalls).
For more information, call 04-90-18-41-20
Easter.
Festival des Musiques d'Aujourd'hui (Festival of
Contemporary Music)
Marseille
This festival presents the works of very young French and
European composers in music and dance.
For more information, call Experimental Music Groups of
Marseille at tel. 04-91-39-29-00
April 29 to May 12.
May:
La F¨ºte des Gardians (Camargue Cowboys' Festival)
Arles This event features a procession of Camargue cowboys
through the streets of town. Activities feature various games
involving bulls, including Courses Camarguaises, in which
competitors have to snatch a rosette from between the horns of a
bull. For information, call 04-90-18-41-20
Early May.
Cannes Film Festival
Movie madness transforms this city into the kingdom of the
media-related deal, with daily melodramas acted out in cafes, on
sidewalks, and in hotel lobbies. Great for voyeurs. Reserve
early and make a deposit. Getting a table on the Carlton terrace
is even more difficult than procuring a room. Admission to some
of the prestigious films is by invitation only. There are
box-office tickets for the less important films, which play 24
hours.
For information, contact the Direction du Festival International
du Film, 99 bd. Malesherbes, 75008 Paris (tel. 01-45-61-66-00;
fax 01-42-66-68-85)
Two weeks before the festival, the event's administration moves
en masse to the Palais des Festivals, esplanade
Georges-Pompidou, 06400 Cannes (tel. 04-93-39-01-01)
Early to mid-May.
Monaco Grand Prix
Hundreds of cars race through the narrow streets and winding
corniche roads in a surreal blend of high-tech machinery and
medieval architecture. For more information, call
01-42-96-12-23.
May 13 to 16.
Le P¨¦lerinage des Gitans (Gypsies' Pilgrimage)
Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
This festival is in memory of the two Marys for whom the town is
named (Mary, the mother of James the lesser, and Mary Salome,
the mother of James the greater and John). A model boat
containing statues of the saints and a statue of St. Sarah,
patron saint of Gypsies, is taken to the seashore and blessed by
the bishop.
For more information, call 04-90-97-82-55
Last week of May.
June:
Festival de la St-Eloi (St. Eloi Festival)
Maussane-les-Alpilles
For this festival, wagons are decorated and raced in the Carreto
Ramado, followed by mass, a procession in traditional dress, and
a benediction. Special events are held and local produce and
handcrafts sold.
For more information, 04-90-54-52-04
Mid-June.
Festival Aix en Musique ("Aix in Music" Festival)
Aix-en-Provence
Concerts of classical music and choral singing are held in
historic buildings, such as the Cloisters of the Cath¨¦drale
St-Sauveur and the Hôtel Maynier d'Opp¨¨de.
For more information, call 04-42-21-69-69
Throughout June.
Festival d'Expression Provençale (Festival of Provençal
Language)
Abbaye St-Michel de Frigolet, Tarascon
At this festival, homage is paid to the region's language with
works by Provençal writers that are acted in French and
Provençal.
For more information, call 04-90-95-50-77
Late June to early July.
Reconstitution Historique (Historical Pageant)
Salon-de-Provence This pageant held in honor of Nostradamus
includes a cast of 700 in historical costume and is followed by
a son-et-lumi¨¨re at the Château d'Emp¨¦ri.
For more information, call 04-90-56-77-92
Late June to early July.
July:
St-Guilhem Music Season
St-Guilhem le D¨¦sert, Languedoc
This festival of baroque organ and choral music is held in a
medieval monastery.
For information, call 04-67-63-14-99
July to early August.
Festival International d'Art Lyrique et de Musique d'Aix
(Aix International Festival of Opera and Music)
Palais de l'Arch¨¦v¨¨che and Cath¨¦drale St-Sauveur,
Aix-en-Provence
This highly prestigious festival presents operas, particularly
of Mozart, as well as concerts and recitals.
For more information, call 04-42-17-34-34
Throughout July.
Bastille Day
Celebrating the birth of modern-day France, the festivities in
the south reach their peak in Nice with street fairs, pageants,
fireworks, and feasts. The day begins with a parade down
promenade des Anglais and ends with fireworks in the Vieille
Ville. No matter where you are, by the end of the day you'll
hear Piaf warbling "La Foule" (The Crowd), the song that
celebrated her passion for the stranger she met and later lost
in a crowd on Bastille Day.
Similar celebrations also take place in Cannes, Arles, Aix,
Marseille, and Avignon.
July 14.
Nuit Taurine (Nocturnal Bull Festival)
St-R¨¦my-de-Provence
At this festival, the focus is on the age-old allure of bulls
and their primeval appeal to roaring crowds. Abrivados involve
bulls in the town square as "chaperoned" by trained herders on
horseback; encierros highlight a Pamplona-style stampeding of
bulls through the streets. Music from local guitarists and
flaming torches add drama.
For more information, call 04-90-92-05-22
Mid-July.
Grand Parade du Jazz (Nice Jazz Festival)
This is the biggest, flashiest, and most prestigious jazz
festival in Europe, with world-class entertainers. Concerts
begin in early afternoon and go on until late at night
(sometimes all night in the clubs) on the Ar¨¨nes de Cimiez, a
hill above the city. Reserve hotel rooms way in advance.
For information, contact the Grand Parade du Jazz, c/o the
Cultural Affairs Department of the city of Nice (tel.
04-93-92-82-82; fax 04-93-92-82-85)
Mid-July.
Festival d'Aix-en-Provence
This musical event par excellence features everything from
Gregorian chant to melodies composed on computerized
synthesizers. The audience sits on the sloping lawns of the
14th-century papal palace for operas and concertos. Local
recitals are performed in the medieval cloister of the
Cath¨¦drale St-Sauveur. Make advance hotel reservations and take
a written confirmation with you when you arrive. Expect heat,
crowds, and traffic.
For more information, contact the Festival International d'Art
Lyrique et de Musique, Palais de l'Ancien Arch¨¦v¨¨che, 13100
Aix-en-Provence (tel. 04-42-17-34-34; fax 04-42-63-13-74)
Mid- to late July.
Les Chor¨¦gies d'Orange
Orange
One of southern France's most important lyric festivals presents
oratorios and choral works by master performers whose voices are
amplified by the ancient acoustics of France's best-preserved
Roman amphitheater. For more information, call 04-90-34-24-24
Mid-July to early August.
Festival d'Avignon
One of France's most prestigious theater events, this
world-class festival has a reputation for exposing new talent to
critical acclaim. The focus is usually on avant-garde works in
theater, dance, and music by groups from around the world. Mime,
too. Make hotel reservations early. For information,
04-90-82-65-11 or fax 04-90-82-95-03. Edwards and Edwards can
order tickets to virtually any of the musical or theatrical
events at the Avignon festival, as well as other cultural events
throughout France. Its address is 1270 Ave. of the Americas,
Suite 2414, New York, NY 10020 (tel. 800/223-6108)
Mid- to late July.
Festival de Marseille M¨¦diterran¨¦e
This festival features concerts and recitals of music and song
from the entire Mediterranean region. Theater and dance are also
presented, along with special exhibitions in the city's main
museums.
For more information, call 04-91-99-00-20 or fax 04-91-99-00-22
Second 2 weeks in July.
F¨ºte de la St-Eloi (Feast of St. Eloi)
G¨¦menos
Some hundred draft horses draw a procession of traditional
flower-decked wagons. Folk troupes also perform.
For more information, call 04-42-32-18-44
Late July.
August:
F¨ºtes Daudet (Daudet Festival)
Fontvieille
At this festival, mass said in Provençal is held in the avenue
of pine trees. There's folk dancing outside Daudet's mill and a
torchlight procession through the streets of town to the mill.
For more information, 04-90-54-67-49
Mid-August
F¨¦ria de St-R¨¦my (Bullfights)
St-R¨¦my-de-Provence
This event features a 4-day celebration of bulls with abrivado
and encierro (see the Nuit Taurine entry above), branding, and
Portuguese bull fighting (matadors on horseback).
For more information, call 04-90-92-05-22
Mid-August.
September:
F¨ºte des Olives (Olive Festival)
Mouri¨¨s
A mass is held in honor of the green olives. There's a
procession of groups in traditional costume, an olive tasting,
and sales of regional produce.
For more information, call 04-90-47-56-58
Mid-September.
F¨¦ria des Pr¨¦mices du Riz (Rice Harvest Festival)
Arles
Bullfights are held in the amphitheater with leading matadors,
and a procession of floats makes its way along boulevard des
Lices; there are also traditional events with cowboys and women
in regional costume.
For more information, 04-90-18-41-20
Mid-September.
Journ¨¦e de l'Olivier en Provence (Day Celebrating the
Olive in Provence)
Salon-de-Provence
This event is attended by producers of olive oil, Marseille
soap, olive-wood articles, booksellers, and pottery and
earthenware makers. Special events are held in the history
center.
For more information, call 04-90-56-27-60
Late September.
Perpignan Jazz Festival
Musicians from everywhere jam in what many visitors consider
Languedoc's most appealing season.
For more information, call 04-68-66-30-30
Late September.
November:
March¨¦ aux Santons
Tarascon
Craftspersons from throughout Provence congregate in this
medieval village to sell their santons (carved representations
of saints).
For more information, call 04-90-91-22-96 or fax 04-90-91-03-52
Four days in late November. This event is supplemented,
sometimes with the same sellers, who move to the Foire aux
Santons in Marseille, held between November 27 and December 31.
For more information, call 04-91-13-89-00 or fax 04-91-13-89-20.
December:
F¨ºte des Bergers (Shepherds Festival)
Istres
This festival features a procession of herds on their way to
winter pastures. There are cowboys, a Carreto Ramado, a blessing
of the horses, an all-night Provençal party with shepherds and
Provençal storytellers, and folk troupes.
For more information, call 04-42-55-51-15
First 2 weeks in December.
Foire de Noël
Mougins
Hundreds of merchants, selling all manner of Christ- mas
ornaments and gifts, descend on Mougins in Provence, to herald
in the Christmas spirit. December 11 and 12.
Midnight Mass
Fontvieille
A traditional midnight mass, including the pastrage ceremony,
the presentation of a new-born lamb. There's a procession of
folk troupes, Camargue cowboys, and women in traditional costume
from Daudet's mill to the church, followed by the presentation
of the lamb.
For more information, call 04-90-54-67-49
December 24.
Noël Provençal (Provençal Christmas)
Eglise St-Vincent, Les Baux
The procession of shepherds is followed by a traditional
midnight mass, including the pastrage ceremony, traditional
songs, and performance of a nativity play.
For more information, call 04-90-54-40-20
December 24.
F¨ºte de St-Sylvestre (New Year's Eve)
nationwide
Along the Riviera, it's most boisterously celebrated in Nice's
Vieille Ville around place Garibaldi. At midnight, the city
explodes. Strangers kiss strangers, and place Mass¨¦na and
promenade des Anglais become virtual pedestrian malls.
December 31.
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